How to Clean Suede Shoes: A Shoemaker’s Guide to the Right Tools and Steps
Suede is a delicate material. It is made by raising the nap on the underside of the leather.
Its expression shifts with the light and the direction of the nap. It has a depth in texture that smooth leather does not.
Since it is delicate, you can quickly see the difference when you don't treat it properly. The color dulls. The nap loses its character. The original texture fades.
In this article, I will show you how to clean suede shoes and keep them looking their best, without damaging them.
What Happens When You Neglect to Clean Suede Shoes
When you neglect to clean your suede shoes, three problems tend to occur.
Dullness from dust. A flattened nap. And frizz. Each one may occur to any pair worn every day.
Let's take a look at each of these issues, one by one.
1. Dust Builds Up and Dulls the Color
The raised nap of suede traps dust, sand, and grit with ease.
If you leave the dust, it will work its way deep into the nap. The surface color will begin to look dull.
2. A Flattened Nap Makes the Color Look Off
Knock or rub suede against something, and the nap will flatten. The color of the suede will look like it has changed.
With smooth leather, a little rubbing rarely changes how the surface looks.
Suede is different. Rub it, and the nap grows rough. The texture changes, and it often looks scratched.
3. Frizz Stands Out and Looks Worn
Frizz that makes suede look old is another problem unique to this material.
If you wear suede shoes for a long time, the nap will become uneven in length. The frizz starts to show.
You might call this aging. But aging well and simply looking old are two different things.
To age your shoes well, you will need to clean them properly and prevent them from frizzing.
You can fix all of these problems with the steps below.
How to Clean Suede Shoes
Cleaning suede shoes comes down to two things.
- Brush away the dust and dirt caught in the nap.
- Smooth the unaligned nap.
You need only a few tools, and the steps are simple. Make it a routine.
Tools You'll Need
1. Pig Bristle Brush
Use a pig bristle brush to dust off the surface and smooth the nap.
You can also use horsehair and goat hair brushes for shoe care, but I recommend a pig bristle brush for its firmness.
The stiffness of a pig bristle brush will dig the dust out of the suede nap.
2. Crepe Brush
A crepe brush is a tool made for suede. The bristles are made of rubber.
The rubber grips the nap and raises the flattened fibers.
3. Lighter
Use a lighter to singe off the frizz that rises from the napped surface.
Frizz that builds up over time cannot be fixed with a brush alone.
Pass the flame quickly over the surface to burn the frizz away and keep it flat.
Now let me walk you through the steps, using these tools.
Step 1: Brush Off the Dust with a Pig Bristle Brush
Use a pig bristle brush to remove any dust and grit from the surface.
Brush a little more around the welt and along the upper seams, where the shoes collect dust.
Step 2: Raise the Nap with the Crepe Brush
Raise the nap with the crepe brush.
Hold the brush firmly. Brush the whole shoe with some force, as if lifting the nap upright.
If the nap is badly flattened, use the corner of the brush. Brush hard until the nap stands up fully.
Step 3: Singe Off the Frizz with the Lighter
Use the flame to even out the nap length.
If you hold the flame too long, it will scorch the leather. The trick is to keep the flame moving quickly.
Step 4: Smooth the Nap in One Direction
Finally, use the pig bristle brush to align the nap in one direction.
Suede changes color depending on the direction of the nap and the angle from which you view it.
So the trick is to brush in one direction — from toe to heel, or from heel to toe.
How to Clean Water Stains from Suede Shoes
From here, I'll explain how to clean the stains that the steps above can't remove.
First, how to deal with water stains — the water-based stains.
Water spots can form after muddy water soaks into the suede and dries.
They can also appear after wearing in the rain, causing the dye and other components to become uneven in the leather, leaving a mark behind.
Either way, if the stain is water-based, you can clean it with tools as in the steps below.
Tools You'll Need
- A handled brush
- A suede-specific cleaner
- A basin of water
Steps
- Fill the basin with water. Be careful not to dip the shoe directly in it. Wet the handled brush with water and dampen the whole shoe evenly.
- Apply the suede cleaner with the handled brush and work the lather on the shoe surface. Lather the entire shoe, not just the stained area.
- Rinse the lather off the whole shoe with water.
- Let it dry in a well-ventilated, shaded spot for two to three days.
How to Clean Oil Stains from Suede Shoes
Next, how to deal with oil stains — the oil-based stains.
Oil stains form when cooking oil gets onto the shoe or when working with oil.
Once this kind of stain has time to soak deep into the fibers, it becomes hard to remove completely.
Remove the stain as soon as you can, using the tools and steps below.
Tools You'll Need
- Cornstarch or talcum powder
- A pig bristle brush
Steps
- Sprinkle cornstarch or talcum powder over the stain to cover it.
- Leave it for a few hours. These powders will draw the oil out.
- Brush the powder away with the pig bristle brush.
- Repeat steps 1 through 3 until the stain is gone.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Here are answers to common questions about cleaning suede shoes.
Q. What should I do when cleaning light-colored suede, like white or beige?
A. Clean them often, and protect the suede before it gets dirty.
Light colors like white and beige show dirt easily.
In addition to cleaning them often with the steps above, protecting them with a spray before they get dirty helps.
I explain this in detail in How to Protect Suede Shoes. Please use it as a reference.
Q. How often should I clean my suede shoes?
A. Once a month is a good start. Beyond that, clean them whenever you notice stains.
Every time you wear suede, dust and dirt slowly build up in the nap.
Cleaning them about once a month, as in the steps shown here, will keep the shoes in good condition.
After a rainy day, or when stains start to show, I recommend cleaning them more often.
Q. What should I do if a stain won't come out?
A. For stubborn stains that home cleaning can't remove, consider taking them to a professional.
Stains that have soaked deep into the fibers — oil spots in particular — can be hard to remove completely with home cleaning.
When this happens, talk to a professional who specializes in shoe repair and cleaning.
Cleaning suede is not a difficult skill.
Brush off the dust. Raise the nap. Even it out with a flame. Repeat this, and your suede shoes will hold their beauty for years.
Once a month, take some time to take care of your shoes. When your pair of shoes is cleaned repeatedly, it will show character of its own as the years pass.
As a final note, I will explain how to choose between the different types of brushes in the article below. Please use it as a reference.